The Pantry
Ingredient Guide
The ingredients chefs lean on most: what they are, how to buy and store them, what to swap in, and which of our recipes put them to work.
Shallots
A mild, sweet member of the onion family and the backbone of French sauces.
BuyFirm, heavy bulbs with dry papery skins. Avoid any that are sprouting.
StoreCool, dark, ventilated spot for up to a month.
SwapThe white part of scallions or a little sweet onion plus a pinch of garlic.
Garlic
Pungent when raw, sweet and nutty when cooked slowly.
BuyTight, heavy heads with no green shoots.
StoreWhole heads at room temperature in open air, never the fridge.
SwapGarlic powder at 1/8 tsp per clove, added later in cooking.
Butter
Fat, flavor and emulsifier in one. Restaurant kitchens finish almost everything with it.
BuyUnsalted, so you control the seasoning. European-style for higher fat.
StoreFridge for weeks, freezer for months.
SwapOlive oil for sautéing; nothing truly replaces it in pan sauces.
Heavy Cream
Rich dairy with at least 36% fat that will not split when boiled.
BuyLook for plain pasteurized cream without added gums.
StoreFridge, used within a week of opening.
SwapCrème fraîche, or whole milk plus melted butter for baking.
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Aged hard cheese packed with savory umami.
BuyA wedge with the rind stamped, never pre-grated.
StoreWrapped in wax paper then foil in the fridge. Save rinds for soup.
SwapGrana Padano or Pecorino Romano (saltier).
Lemons
Acid that wakes up a finished dish. Zest carries the aroma, juice the brightness.
BuyHeavy for their size with thin, glossy skin.
StoreFridge in a bag for up to a month.
SwapLime, or a splash of white wine vinegar for acidity.
Fresh Thyme
Woody herb that survives long cooking: braises, roasts and basting butter.
BuyBright green sprigs without black spots.
StoreWrapped in a damp paper towel in the fridge.
SwapDried thyme at one third the amount.
Dijon Mustard
Sharp mustard and a natural emulsifier for vinaigrettes and pan sauces.
BuyImported French Dijon for the cleanest heat.
StoreFridge after opening, for months.
SwapWhole grain or spicy brown mustard.
Miso
Fermented soybean paste for deep savory flavor in glazes, soups and butter.
BuyWhite miso for mild, red for bold.
StoreFridge for up to a year.
SwapA little soy sauce plus tahini.
Saffron
The stigma of a crocus; gives paella and risotto their gold color and honeyed aroma.
BuyWhole deep red threads, never powder.
StoreAirtight and dark for up to two years.
SwapNothing tastes the same; a pinch of turmeric gives the color only.
Soy Sauce
Salty, fermented seasoning that adds depth well beyond Asian cooking.
BuyNaturally brewed; tamari if gluten free.
StorePantry, or the fridge for best flavor after opening.
SwapTamari, coconut aminos or fish sauce (use less).
Cook with it
Kosher Salt
Coarse, clean salt that chefs pinch by hand. It seasons more evenly and forgivingly than table salt.
BuyDiamond Crystal is lighter and harder to oversalt than Morton.
StoreA salt cellar by the stove. It keeps indefinitely.
SwapTable salt at about half the volume.
Flaky Sea Salt
Delicate crystals added at the very end for crunch and bursts of salinity.
BuyMaldon is the restaurant standard.
StoreAirtight and dry.
SwapCoarse kosher salt, though the crunch is different.
Black Peppercorns
Whole berries that lose their aroma within minutes of grinding, so always grind fresh.
BuyTellicherry for bold, fruity heat.
StoreWhole, in a sealed jar, away from light.
SwapWhite pepper for pale sauces.
Eggs
Binder, leavener, emulsifier and a meal on their own.
BuyPasture-raised for deeper orange yolks.
StoreIn the carton on a fridge shelf, not the door.
SwapFor baking, 1 tbsp ground flax plus 3 tbsp water per egg.
Crème Fraîche
Tangy cultured cream that won't curdle in hot sauces.
BuyPlain, full fat, near the mascarpone.
StoreFridge for up to two weeks after opening.
SwapSour cream (off the heat) or Greek yogurt.
Cook with it
Fresh Ginger
Zippy, warming root at the heart of stir-fries, curries and marinades.
BuySmooth, taut skin that snaps cleanly.
StoreFreeze whole and grate it straight from frozen.
SwapGround ginger at 1/4 tsp per tbsp fresh.
Fresh Basil
Sweet, aromatic herb. Add it at the end because heat dulls it fast.
BuyPerky leaves with no dark bruising.
StoreStems in a glass of water on the counter, never the fridge.
SwapFresh mint or parsley, a different but bright finish.
Flat-Leaf Parsley
Clean, grassy herb that brightens almost any savory plate.
BuyItalian flat-leaf over curly, for flavor.
StoreUpright in water in the fridge, loosely covered.
SwapCilantro or chervil.
Rosemary
Piney, resinous herb built for roasts, potatoes and focaccia.
BuyFirm green needles that smell strong when rubbed.
StoreWrapped in a damp towel in the fridge for two weeks.
SwapDried rosemary at one third the amount, crumbled.
Anchovies
The secret savory depth behind Caesar dressing and countless pasta sauces. They melt away.
BuyOil-packed in glass jars, or salt-packed for purists.
StoreFridge, fully submerged in oil once opened.
SwapFish sauce or a little miso.
Cook with it
Capers
Pickled flower buds with a briny pop for piccata and puttanesca.
BuySmall nonpareils for the most delicate texture.
StoreFridge in their brine for months.
SwapChopped green olives.
Fish Sauce
Fermented anchovy liquid with a powerful savory backbone.
BuyRed Boat or Three Crabs.
StorePantry or fridge for a year.
SwapSoy sauce plus a squeeze of lime.
Cook with it
Sherry Vinegar
Nutty, rounded Spanish vinegar that makes vinaigrettes taste expensive.
BuyLabeled Vinagre de Jerez.
StorePantry indefinitely.
SwapRed wine vinegar with a pinch of sugar.
Cook with it
Balsamic Vinegar
Sweet-tart aged vinegar for glazes, dressings and fruit.
BuyAceto Balsamico di Modena IGP for daily use; aged tradizionale for drizzling.
StorePantry indefinitely.
SwapReduced red wine vinegar with honey.
Cook with it
Dry White Wine
Deglazes the pan and adds acidity to risotto, mussels and cream sauces.
BuyA crisp Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio you'd drink.
StoreRecorked in the fridge for up to five days.
SwapStock plus a splash of white wine vinegar.
Chicken Stock
The liquid foundation of sauces, braises, risotto and soups.
BuyLow sodium, so reductions don't turn salty.
StoreFreeze in ice cube trays for quick pan sauces.
SwapVegetable stock, or water with a little extra seasoning.
Vanilla Beans
Real vanilla brings floral depth to custards, ice cream and pastry.
BuyPlump, oily, flexible pods.
StoreAirtight at room temperature. Bury used pods in sugar.
Swap1 tbsp pure extract per bean.
Dark Chocolate
Bittersweet chocolate is the base of mousse, ganache and molten cakes.
BuyBars at 60–70% cacao, not chips, which contain stabilizers.
StoreCool and dry, never the fridge.
SwapCocoa powder plus butter: 3 tbsp cocoa and 1 tbsp butter per ounce.
Leeks
Gentle, sweet allium that melts into soups, braises and tarts.
BuyLong white and pale green sections, crisp dark tops.
StoreUnwashed in the fridge for up to two weeks.
SwapShallots or sweet onion.
Mushrooms
Meaty, earthy and full of umami. Sear them hard in a hot, uncrowded pan.
BuyFirm, dry caps with no slime.
StorePaper bag in the fridge, never plastic.
SwapRehydrated dried porcini for deeper flavor.
San Marzano Tomatoes
Sweet, low-acid Italian plum tomatoes that make the best simple sauces.
BuyLook for the DOP seal on the can.
StorePantry; once opened, a glass container in the fridge for five days.
SwapAny good canned whole plum tomatoes.
Tomato Paste
Concentrated tomato that adds depth when fried until it turns brick red.
BuyDouble-concentrated in a tube.
StoreFridge after opening, or freeze by the tablespoon.
SwapReduced tomato sauce.
Arborio Rice
Short-grain rice whose starch makes risotto creamy.
BuyCarnaroli is the chef's upgrade and holds its shape better.
StoreAirtight in the pantry.
SwapCarnaroli, Vialone Nano or sushi rice in a pinch.
Dried Pasta
Bronze-cut pasta has a rough surface that grips sauce.
BuyBronze-die Italian brands like Rustichella or De Cecco.
StorePantry for a year or more.
SwapFresh pasta, cooked for much less time.
Panko
Light, airy Japanese breadcrumbs that fry up shatteringly crisp.
BuyPlain, unseasoned.
StoreAirtight in the pantry.
SwapCoarse homemade breadcrumbs, dried in the oven.
Mascarpone
Rich, sweet Italian cream cheese for tiramisu and silky pastas.
BuyFull fat, with the shortest ingredient list.
StoreFridge, used within a few days of opening.
SwapCream cheese beaten with a splash of cream.
Cook with it
Gruyère
Nutty Alpine cheese that melts beautifully in gratins and onion soup.
BuyAged 10+ months for depth.
StoreWrapped in paper in the fridge.
SwapComté or Emmental.
Cook with it
Pancetta
Cured Italian pork belly that renders into the base of carbonara and ragù.
BuyDiced or a slab you cube yourself.
StoreFridge for a week, freezer for months.
SwapGuanciale (better) or thick unsmoked bacon.
Cook with it
Recipes coming soon.
Smoked Paprika
Spanish pimentón with deep, smoky warmth.
BuyTins from La Vera, sweet or hot.
StoreAirtight and dark; replace yearly.
SwapSweet paprika plus a pinch of chipotle.
Cumin
Earthy, warm spice behind curries, tacos and Middle Eastern dishes.
BuyWhole seeds, then toast and grind.
StoreAirtight, away from the stove's heat.
SwapGround coriander with a little chili powder.
Nutmeg
Warm spice that rounds out béchamel, spinach and custards.
BuyWhole nutmegs grated fresh on a Microplane.
StoreWhole, they keep for years.
SwapMace, or a pinch of allspice.
Cook with it
Honey
Floral sweetener for glazes, dressings and balancing heat.
BuyRaw local honey for character.
StorePantry indefinitely; warm it gently if it crystallizes.
SwapMaple syrup.
Maple Syrup
Real tree syrup with caramel depth for glazes and baking.
BuyGrade A dark for the most flavor.
StoreFridge after opening.
SwapHoney or brown sugar syrup.
Cook with it
Recipes coming soon.
Tahini
Toasted sesame paste for hummus, dressings and sauces.
BuyPourable Middle Eastern brands like Soom.
StorePantry; stir well before using.
SwapSmooth unsweetened peanut or cashew butter.
Cook with it
Sesame Oil
Toasted oil used as a finishing seasoning, not for frying.
BuyDark toasted, in a glass bottle.
StoreFridge to prevent rancidity.
SwapA little toasted sesame seed ground into neutral oil.
Gochujang
Korean fermented chili paste that is spicy, sweet and savory.
BuyTubs with medium heat to start.
StoreFridge for months.
SwapSriracha mixed with a little miso.
Cook with it
Limes
Sharp, floral acid that finishes Thai, Mexican and Vietnamese dishes.
BuyHeavy, smooth and slightly soft.
StoreFridge in a bag.
SwapLemon.
Cilantro
Bright, citrusy herb. Use the stems too because they hold the most flavor.
BuyBright, unwilted bunches.
StoreUpright in water in the fridge, covered with a bag.
SwapParsley with a squeeze of lime.
Red Onions
Mild and colorful; perfect raw, pickled or charred.
BuyFirm, glossy bulbs with no soft spots.
StoreCool, dark and ventilated, away from potatoes.
SwapShallots, or sweet onion soaked in cold water.
Fennel
Crisp anise-scented bulb that turns sweet and silky when roasted.
BuyHeavy white bulbs with bright fronds.
StoreFridge drawer for a week.
SwapCelery with a pinch of fennel seed.
Celery
One third of mirepoix, the quiet base of French stocks and braises.
BuyTight, crisp stalks with fresh leaves.
StoreWrapped in foil in the fridge to stay crunchy.
SwapFennel or celeriac.
Carrots
Sweet root that roasts, glazes and builds flavor in stocks.
BuyWith greens attached for freshness.
StoreGreens removed, in the fridge.
SwapParsnips.
Potatoes
Waxy for salads and gratins, starchy for fries and mash.
BuyYukon Golds are the all-rounder.
StoreCool and dark, never in the fridge.
SwapSweet potatoes or celeriac.
Spinach
Tender green that wilts in seconds into pastas, eggs and sides.
BuyBright, dry leaves with no slime.
StoreFridge with a paper towel in the bag.
SwapArugula, kale or chard.
Asparagus
Spring's best vegetable: grassy, sweet and quick to cook.
BuyTight tips, firm stalks of even thickness.
StoreUpright in an inch of water in the fridge.
SwapGreen beans or broccolini.
Cook with it
Chiles
Fresh heat from jalapeño, serrano or Thai bird chiles.
BuyGlossy, firm, unwrinkled.
StoreFridge for two weeks, or freeze whole.
SwapRed pepper flakes.
Cook with it
Red Pepper Flakes
Crushed dried chile for gentle heat in pasta, oils and sauces.
BuyCalabrian or Aleppo for more flavor.
StoreAirtight; replace yearly.
SwapCayenne at a quarter the amount.
Coconut Milk
Rich, creamy base for curries, soups and desserts.
BuyFull fat cans, like Aroy-D or Chaokoh.
StorePantry; once opened, fridge for four days.
SwapHeavy cream (different flavor).
Lemongrass
Citrusy, floral stalk essential to Thai and Vietnamese cooking.
BuyFirm, pale stalks that smell lemony when bruised.
StoreFridge two weeks, or freeze.
SwapLemon zest with a little ginger.
Rice Vinegar
Mild, slightly sweet vinegar for sushi rice, slaws and dressings.
BuyUnseasoned, so you control sugar and salt.
StorePantry indefinitely.
SwapApple cider vinegar diluted with a little water.
Mirin
Sweet Japanese rice wine that adds gloss to glazes and teriyaki.
BuyHon mirin (true mirin) over 'mirin-style' seasoning.
StorePantry or fridge.
SwapDry sherry plus a pinch of sugar.
Duck Fat
Silky, savory fat that makes the crispiest potatoes on earth.
BuyJars near the butcher counter.
StoreFridge for months; strain and reuse.
SwapGhee or bacon fat.
Cook with it
Ghee
Clarified butter with a nutty flavor and a high smoke point.
BuyGrass-fed jars.
StorePantry for months.
SwapButter plus a little neutral oil.
Cook with it
Ricotta
Soft, fresh cheese for lasagna, gnudi and toast.
BuyWhole milk, thick and creamy rather than watery.
StoreFridge, used within five days.
SwapDrained cottage cheese, blended.
Feta
Briny, crumbly cheese that brightens salads, bakes and dips.
BuyBlocks sold in brine, sheep's milk if possible.
StoreSubmerged in its brine in the fridge.
SwapGoat cheese or ricotta salata.
Cook with it
Pine Nuts
Buttery seeds for pesto and salads. Toast them to unlock flavor.
BuyFrom the bulk bin with a fast turnover.
StoreFreezer, because they spoil quickly.
SwapWalnuts or almonds.
Brown Sugar
Molasses-rich sugar for caramel notes in glazes and cookies.
BuyDark brown for deeper flavor.
StoreAirtight with a slice of bread to stay soft.
SwapWhite sugar plus 1 tbsp molasses per cup.
Cornstarch
The secret to glossy stir-fry sauces and extra-crispy fried coatings.
BuyAny plain brand.
StorePantry indefinitely.
SwapArrowroot or potato starch.
Olive Oil
Everyday cooking fat; a good extra virgin doubles as a finishing sauce.
BuyDark bottle with a harvest date within the last year.
StoreCool and dark, used within a few months of opening.
SwapAvocado oil for high heat cooking.